There's an enduring myth that Lake Crescent in Washington state's Olympic National Park is bottomless. Of course it's not. (The maximum depth is 624 feet.) But it's fair to say that the lake's pleasures are bottomless. Azure water, so clear that you can see 60 feet down in spots, stretches 12 miles across, set against a backdrop of forested summits and slopes. Lake Crescent Lodge sits back from the water, little changed in appearance since President Franklin Roosevelt warmed himself by its stone fireplace in 1937, the year before he authorized the park's creation. The lodge was our base camp for exploring a bit of the Olympic Peninsula. But we ended each day by the lake, sinking into Adirondack chairs, watching the water lap against the shore. The tab for two: $474 for two nights at the lodge and $275 for meals.