Enter Jimmy Carter, who flew to Pyongyang in 1994 for a face-to-face with Kim Il-sung, the current dictator's grandfather. Mr. Carter saw a capital he said reminded him of the "Wal-Mart in Americus, Georgia." The neon lights looked to him like "Times Square." He said he encountered a population that was "friendly and open." Mr. Kim, he said, was "revered" by his people and "treated as a combination of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Abe Lincoln."