The French often speak of the taste of a place, the terroir of a food. Chesapeake Bay oysters have a special, distinct meroir — the seafood version of terroir. When the our watermen are selling black sea bass, blue catfish, rockfish, Chesapeake clams, oysters and the iconic blue crab, I make the most of what is seasonally and locally available. And it makes sense; our patrons want delicious and fresh food more than a predictable menu. And there are things we just don't serve. I don't buy salmon or shrimp because they are not available at local fisheries. I'd much rather work closely with bay watermen to help guarantee them reliable markets. This is the real goal of building a local food economy: to create a healthy ecosystem of burgeoning fisheries, independent fishermen, wonderful restaurants and ultimately our own good health.