The sun came out today and the air warmed to the seventies, so Kathleen and I, eager for warmth on our faces and breeze in our hair after a difficult and discouraging winter, went out to do a little yard work before the oak trees release their poisonous pollen.
I was mildly apprehensive that there is not yet any sign of mint. There was none at this point last year, after another difficult winter, and I was apprehensive then, too. But mint is hardy, and it came back. All the same, with Derby Day a mere three and a half weeks away, you will want to keep your eyes open for the appearance of mint, because fresh-cut mint is an essential for a proper julep.
Herewith, my annual advice on that most excellent drink, the mint julep.
Do keep in mind, however, that the julep is not some genteel lady's drink but a serious beverage with a quantity of whiskey that commands respect.
First, the bourbon. Cheap stuff, which adolescents mix with Coca-Cola or use to rinse wounds, is too raw. My bourbon ordinaire, Old Forester, is perfectly respectable. Maker's Mark answers nicely, or the sublime Woodford Reserve if you're feeling flush. The small-batch, single-barrel bourbons you are accustomed to sipping neat or with the merest splash of water, when you are in funds, are probably not the best for mixing with sugar, mint, and a glass full of ice.
On no account resort ersatz bourbon from Tennessee. Bourbon, properly speaking, is a product of the Commonwealth of Kentucky. Accept no substitutes.
Traditionalists to the manner born use the silver cups they inherited from their grandfathers. Among us plebs, a good squat glass with a solid bottom will do nicely.
Harvest your mint, rinse it, and pat it dry with paper towels. Put about a teaspoon of sugar in a glass and mix it with just enough water to dissolve it. Add a few mint leaves and muddle them thoroughly. If your equipment lacks a muddler, the handle of a crab mallet will suffice.
The quality of the ice is crucial. It should be cracked ice. Crushed ice will melt too quickly, producing a weak and watery julep. Whole ice cubes will not yield the correct balance. So take some cubes, put them in a plastic bag, wrap it in a kitchen towel, and wale away at them with a rolling pin. You may want to entertain yourself by associating the action with certain colleagues.
Fill the glass with cracked ice and pour bourbon over it until the ice is covered. Garnish with a mint leaf. Sip. Reflect that life is good and give thanks to the Baptist clergy for their two great contributions to Western civilization: the separation of church and state, and bourbon whiskey.
When the band plays "My Old Kentucky Home," stand respectfully and shut your mouth.
Then you may want to construct another.