There's nothing wrong with hot, buttered corn on the cob -- it's a summertime tradition, after all -- but today's episode of Roughly Speaking considers several possibilities for corn off the cob. I'm joined again by Chesapeake cookbook author John Shields, owner of Gertrude's restaurant in the Baltimore Museum of Art. John offers three recipes here for those willing to take a knife to ears of corn and set the kernels free.
Lady Liberty Seafood Salad
Serves 8 to 10
A family Fourth of July picnic at the Biddlecombs' in Reedville, Virginia, just wouldn't seem right without this colorful salad, a longtime family favorite. Primarily a seafood salad, it contains just a small amount of pasta and fresh, crisp vegetables that are bound together with a light, sherry-flavored vinaigrette.
1 pound steamed shrimp, peeled and deveined.
2 cups small shell macaroni
1 cup cooked corn kernels
1 cup sliced celery
½ medium green bell pepper, finely chopped
½ medium red bell pepper, finely chopped
½ small red onion, finely chopped
2 green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
¼ cup sherry
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pound lump or backfin crabmeat, picked over for shells
Cut the shrimp into pieces about ½ inch wide and set aside.
Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water until just tender, but not mushy. Drain and rinse with cold water. Put the pasta in a large bowl and add the corn, celery, green and red bell peppers, red onion, green onion, and parsley. In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, Vinaigrette Dressing, sherry, lemon juice, and Old Bay seasoning. Pour the mayonnaise mixture into the pasta and mix well. Season with pepper. Add the crabmeat and reserved shrimp and fold gently, taking care not to break apart the lumps of crabmeat. Serve chilled.
Chicken and Corn Fritters
Every summer during my childhood, we would head to the Eastern Shore resort town of Betterton, Maryland. Just anticipating the boat trip and a stay at the old Victorian-style hotel with its big screened porches would leave me sleepless for days before our actual departure. I still remember the sumptuous meals served in the elegant dining room of the hotel. Biting into these light and fluffy fritters takes me back to those enchanting summer excursions. Although not traditional, an apple chutney served on the side goes well with these tasty morsels.
Serves 5 to 6
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup milk
1 tablespoon grated onion
2 tablespoons chopped chives or parsley
Pinch of ground nutmeg
¾ cup coarsely chopped cooked chicken meat (1/2-inch pieces)
½ cup corn kernels
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Green Tomato and Apple Chutney for accompaniment
Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the eggs. Beat in the milk, onion, chives, and nutmeg. Add the chicken and corn. Pour oil into a heavy skillet to a depth of 1 inch, and heat until very hot, about 375°F. Drop the batter in by the tablespoonful, a few fritters at a time, and fry until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted utensil to paper towels to drain. Serve with chutney for dipping.
Smoked Corn Salsa
1 cup fresh corn kernels
Wood chips
¼ cup diced green bell pepper
¼ cup diced red onion
¼ cup chopped tomatoes, peeled and seeded
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons tomato juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
5 dashes of Tabasco Sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Place the corn in a shallow perforated pan that sits in a deeper solid pan. Place a couple of handfuls of wood chips (hickory works well) in the deeper pan. Put the perforated pan into the deep pan and cover with a lid or foil. Place on the stove over medium heat. Checking frequently, let the corn smoke until it has turned a nice light brown color. Remove from the heat and transfer the corn to a mixing bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Let stand for at least 1 hour before using, to allow the flavors to blend.