Louis J. Chiapparelli, a retired Little Italy restaurateur and maitre d'hotel who was the second generation of his family to own and operate Chiapparelli's on High Street, died of complications from pneumonia March 8 at Gilchrist Hospice Care. The Towson resident was 90.
Born in Baltimore and raised on Exeter Street, he was the son of Pasquale "Patsy" Chiapparelli and Anna Mary "Nellie" Chiapparelli. He attended City College and worked briefly as a stevedore before joining the Marines during World War II. He served at the Panama Canal and aboard the USS Intrepid.
Mr. Chiapparelli sent home money so his father, an accomplished cook and baker, could open a restaurant on High Street, said his son Robert Chiapparelli. The business was initially a small operation and its main dish was Neapolitan-style pizza.
In 1952, Mr. Chiapparelli married Frances Macciocca, whose family owned and operated Roma Restaurant at High and Fawn streets.
"There was a mild rivalry between the Chiapparellis and the Maccioccas, but it never extended beyond that. At the time, the Roma was a much larger restaurant with a full staff, and we had pizza," Robert Chiapparelli said.
The family restaurant enlarged its menu beyond pizza, and Mr. Chiapparelli's father created the restaurant's signature dishes, including its salad dressing. He baked on the second floor of the rowhouse, which had living quarters on the third floor.
"My father's strength was being at the front door. He was known for being the guy with the personality," Robert Chiapparelli said. "He was made for that job. He had a likable sense of humor that his customers appreciated. He knew where they liked to sit and which waitress they wanted."
In the early 1970s, the restaurant had a small bar, and dining rooms on the first and second floors. There were often lines out the door on a Saturday night when Mr. Chiapparelli had to juggle the crowd and keep everyone happy.
"He was good at doing this, said Stephen Kuehn, an employee. "When people had waited 45 minutes, he could make a joke and calm them down."
He was eventually joined by his three brothers, Joseph, known as Buddy; Charles, or Charlie; and Pasquale Jr., who was called "Nicky." They worked together until the elder Mr. Chiapparelli died in 1975. Nearly a decade later the family acquired the former Roma property and enlarged the Chiapparelli business. The business is now run by Mr. Chiapparelli's nephew, Bryan Chiapparelli, whose father was the late Buddy Chiapparelli.
"You could not go to too many places that someone didn't recognize Lou, " said Mr. Kuehn, who is now a part-time maitre d' at Sammy's Trattoria. "He was a good front man at the door. He taught me a lot. He had a way of making everybody feel good. If he knew you, he called you 'Judge.' If he didn't know you, he called you 'Doctor.'"
In 1977, Mr. Chiapparelli assisted in running Charlie Chiapparelli's restaurant in the Mercantile Building on Washington Avenue in Towson. He also was also the maitre d' there. His wife made the restaurant's desserts, which were often singled out for praise by The Baltimore Sun's critics.
He also helped operate Buddy Chipp's, a restaurant and delicatessen at St. Paul and Chase streets in Mount Vernon.
"He was good at engaging people and made sure they were enjoying themselves," said Mr. Kuehn. "But he also knew how to turn over the tables."
Mr. Chiapparelli retired 20 years ago. In retirement, he and his wife met friends for lunch at shopping malls in the area. Their routine included trips to the Owings Mills, Kenilworth, Towsontown and White Marsh malls on certain days of the week.
A private memorial service is being planned.
In addition to his wife of nearly 63 years and his son, survivors include a daughter, Teresa Chiapparelli of Baltimore; and his brother Charles, a retired District Court judge.