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FOR A MEAT-GRILLING GUY, VEGETABLES CALL FOR A WHOLE NEW WAY OF THINKING

THE BALTIMORE SUN

This weekend, an Indianapolis 500 announcer will tell assembled race car drivers, "Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines." Meanwhile the nation's backyard cooks will respond to another seasonal directive. We, the ladies and gentlemen of backyard barbecue, will fire up our grills.

Memorial Day is the start of the serious outdoor cooking season. Sure, in the colder months, some of us have occasionally ventured out, dancing around the barbecue cooker in our heavy coats, battling the elements to try to produce a dish with a smoky flavor. But by Memorial Day, the weather is generally warm enough to gives us the chance to burn something for supper on a regular basis.

Ordinarily I am a hunk-of-meat cook, but to kick off this year's smoky season, I grilled vegetables. One recent May afternoon, I grilled asparagus, corn, carrots, green beans and potatoes.

They turned out surprisingly well. In addition to possessing some pleasing fire flavor, the vegetables had terrific looking grill marks on them. Among the backyard smoky set, these grill marks are badges of honor.

Grilling vegetables made me to change the way I approached my cooker. When preparing a pork shoulder or a beef brisket, I would simply slap a seasoned rub on them then let them cook slowly over low fire for half a day or so. However, when working with the vegetables, the cooking time was quick, 20 minutes at the most. The preparation, getting the vegetables ready for their short dance in the fire, was more elaborate.

For instance, to get corn on the cob ready for the fire, I soaked the ears in salty brine for several hours. This technique came from folks at America's Test Kitchens in Boston, publishers of a new spiral bound cookbook, Cook's Country Best Grilling Recipes. The book said that testers tried a variety of methods of grilling corn, including cooking it with the husks on. But, according to the book, brining the corn in a saltwater bath, similar to what some folks do with their Thanksgiving turkey, plumped up the kernels and made the corn tender.

After tasting the corn, I had to agree. The supermarket corn that I husked and soaked in salt water was exceptionally tender when it came off the grill. Soaking the corn did require thinking ahead. This was somewhat foreign ground to me, a guy who grills "in the moment." Soaking the corn on cob, I surmised, is something I might do before a big feed, a family picnic. But I am not sure I would go to the trouble for a weeknight meal.

The grilled carrots had excellent flavor and outstanding grill marks. But they did have to be cooked twice, a bummer. First I blanched them in boiling water. Then, after rubbing them in a mixture of butter, orange zest and maple syrup, I popped them on the grill for a few minutes. I decided that the grilled carrot dish was one that I would roll out on special occasions, when I was showing off.

Grilling asparagus, however, was easy, a dish I could throw together as the grill fires heated up. Following a recipe in Weber's Way To Grill, I made vinaigrette that contained lemon zest , then sprinkled it on the asparagus spears. The sprinkled spears cooked quickly. The trick was to align the spears so they remained perpendicular to the cooking grate. If any spears got parallel to the grate, they would dive into the fire. I did not lose a one. Moreover, the combination of the smoky asparagus, the lemon vinaigrette, and the crisp pieces of grilled prosciutto that were crumbled on top of the vegetables made an outstanding dish. This was a keeper.

Cooking the potatoes in the fire required a lot of aluminum foil, a tablespoon of Old Bay and patience.

I found this recipe in Serious Barbecue, a book by Adam Perry Lang. Lang ,a graduate of Culinary Institute of America, lives in New York, but was familiar with Maryland's favorite seasoning , Old Bay. Following his instructions, I wrapped two pounds of little golf-ball size new potatoes in a double layer of foil. I added butter, herbs, the Old Bay and a cup of water. I sealed the package and, wearing insulated gloves, put the foil package of potatoes directly on a mound of hot coals in the bottom of barbecue cooker. After 20 minutes, I tested to see if the potatoes were done by piercing the package with a metal skewer. The skewer moved easily. Again donning the insulated gloves, I lifted the package from the coals and unwrapped it. The potatoes were done, but to my taste they could have used more Old Bay. The potatoes did not have any grill flavors, but cooking them directly on the coals was fun, a page from my Cub Scout youth.

Finally, I wanted to cook green beans on the grill. I knew this would present a significant challenge. Green beans are so skinny that they could easily fall through the cooking grate into the fire. I looked upon this challenge as an opportunity, namely, an opportunity to buy a new grill toy, a mesh metal basket with strong handles. My gleaming grill basket was pricey, $40 at Williams Sonoma. But it did a great job corralling the green beans. The beans had been coated with a garlicky olive oil. They browned in the basket after a mere four minutes over a roaring fire.

After feeding my family a smoky supper, I asked them to rate the grilled vegetables. Top marks went to the asparagus and corn, followed by the carrots, the green beans, and lastly the potatoes.

My new grill basket, which proved to be an ideal tool to cook vegetables, had lost its luster. But it looked substantial and ready to handle more sessions over a hot fire. That is a good thing because now that I have mastered the basics of grilling vegetables, I plan to repeat the experience.

grilled asparagus and prosciutto with lemon vinaigrette

Makes: 4 servings

2

tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1

tablespoon finely diced shallot

2

teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1

teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4

cup olive oil

1/4

teaspoon kosher salt

1/4

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2

pounds asparagus

1/2

teaspoon kosher salt

4

thin slices of prosciutto, about 2 ounces total

Prepare a grill for direct cooking over medium heat.

In a small bowl whisk the vinegar, shallot, lemon zest and mustard. Slowly drizzle and whisk in the oil until it is emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove and discard the tough bottom of each asparagus spear by grasping the end and bending gently until it snaps at its natural point of tenderness. Spread asparagus on a large plate. Drizzle with a few tablespoons of the vinaigrette and season with the salt.

Grill the asparagus over direct medium heat, aligning the spears perpendicular to the grate bars, or use a perforated grill pan. Turn spears once or twice. Asparagus will take 6 to 8 minutes.

Remove the asparagus and grill the prosciutto until it is crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.

Arrange the asparagus on a platter, spoon on the vinaigrette, and crumble the crispy prosciutto on top.

Adapted from Weber's Way to Grill by Jamie Purviance

Nutrition information

Per serving: 189 calories, 15 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat,

11 milligrams cholesterol, 8 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrate, 3 grams fiber, 653 milligrams sodium

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