SAMBUCA FRIEND SQUASH

The more casual side at Cinghiale - the enoteca - keeps getting more accessible. So get a plate of late-summer bliss - firm yellow squash enveloped in a crispy batter, pleasingly salty with just the faintest whiff of anise. Better yet, have them as an accompaniment to executive chef Julian Marucci's Roman fried chicken (R.F.C.), where the tempura-like batter seems to be suspended in air over the juicy skin beneath ($16). Eat it outside, with a glass of Frascati.

Try the Sambuca Fried Squash at Cinghiale, 822 Lancaster St. 410-547-8282. $9