I like Gordon Ramsay, the angry chef who's in love with a certain expletive. I know that as a mean and rude guy, he embodies the worst of reality TV. Furthermore, his persona is totally at odds with my own commitment to civility.

But that said, he is also one of the only figures on TV who insists on all-out effort, personal responsibility and excellence from the food-service workers and restaurant owners he encounters on Kitchen Nightmares. We could use more of that, and not just in the world of food.

In this two-hour special, Ramsay revisits six of the New York restaurants he tried to turn around last year - starting with a crazed Irish pub in the Hamptons. The program goes downhill from there, but it's mostly a fun ride. (8 p.m., Fox) ** 1/2

ONE LAST GAVEL SOUNDS After getting off to subdued start in deference to Hurricane Gustav, the Republican National Convention ends tonight in St. Paul, Minn. Some 10 channels will be cover John McCain's acceptance speech, set for the 10 o'clock hour.

Last week, a record-setting 38.3 million people tuned in to hear Barack Obama's acceptance speech. Record after record has been set for TV coverage of the campaigns and primaries.

My picks: Alternate between CNN and Fox if you have cable, and watch PBS if you don't. Both CNN and PBS were big ratings winners last week - and they deserved to be.

But for something new, try BBC America. (10 p.m., BBC America)