WINE FIND

The Baltimore Sun

2006 Frei Brothers Reserve Chardonnay

From: Russian River Valley, Calif.

Price: $20

Serve with: Salmon, pork, ham

This reviewer is generally a chardo-skeptic, but this well-crafted, restrained, elegant version from Sonoma County won me over with its finely balanced mix of lemon, apple, vanilla and almond flavors. It's one of the relatively few California chardonnays around this price that truly reflects the style of the white Burgundy wines that made this varietal a big deal in the first place.

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