When I asked Tony Guarino, general manager of Saute (2844 Hudson St., 410-327-2883) in Canton about the new restaurant's name, he said, "Most of our dishes hit the pan."
This self-described American brasserie is located where the Duck Inn was. The owners bought the house next door to create a dining room and bar that's two houses wide. Guarino said the renovated space has a "nouveau '70s feel to it," with dark woods and mosaic tile in colors of green, copper and purple.
Guarino promises an upscale atmosphere and mid-priced food, with entrees running from $15 to $25. Some of the best-sellers in the first weeks of Saute's opening are duck nachos (the restaurant makes its own chips); risotto made with orzo (I just report this stuff), ham and apples; and Scottish salmon over Swiss chard.
Saute's dining room is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Brunch is coming later, along with a small late-night menu.
Changes at the Belvedere --The Owl Bar (1 E. Chase St., 410-347-0888) in the Belvedere closed for a week recently while the kitchen was being completely overhauled. Now that it's open again, here's what's new:
Most significantly, the beautiful John Eager Howard Room next door is being used again, both for parties too large for the Owl Bar itself (the kitchen now can handle large parties) and for a Sunday brunch buffet. It features various stations, including one for freshly made omelets.
The brunch buffet is available from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and costs $14.95 a person. On Easter Sunday, it will be served from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and will cost $18.95.
The new kitchen also is creating a lot more from scratch, including its french fries, sauces and salad dressings.
Naked coffee --Can you imagine a Starbucks in Hampden? I thought not. Instead you have the new El Rancho Grande at 3608 Falls Road (myspace.com/itsabigranch). This is a one-room coffeehouse that never heard of espresso - so uncool it's really, really cool. Two bucks will buy you a cup of coffee or tea, and that's about it. Hours are 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Hasta la vista --Regular customers were saddened to get an e-mail from the owners of Kiko's Cucina Mexicana (8806 Belair Road) in Perry Hall that said in part, "There have been many rumors that we are closing down Kiko's or that we are selling Kiko's. We have the sad news that these rumors are true, and we can blame it on the economy."
When I called Petra Pineyro, she said she and her husband, Marco, have a possible buyer who would keep it as a Mexican restaurant. Kiko's opened four years ago, and in that time got excellent marks from local reviewers.
Send restaurant news, trends, questions of general interest or observations to me at elizabeth.large@baltsun.com or fax me at 410-783-2519. Snail mail works, too: Elizabeth Large, The Sun, P.O. Box 1377, Baltimore 21278.