Green wines are growing. These are "eco" green wines that their makers say are made in harmony with nature. In the United States their sales are up, as is the number of vineyards using organic farming methods.

There are various grades of green. First, there is wine made from vineyards that practice "sustainable farming." This is a rather loosely defined designation, which means that the wineries use a minimum of chemical treatments and preserve the natural balance of the soil.

Stag's Leap Winery Merlot

Napa Valley, Calif., 2004 -- $33

The alcohol in this California merlot - structured, classy and sustainably farmed - was too hot for me.