Plump, smooth-skinned, colored an unmistakable dark yellow - the color of egg yolks or the sun at noon - Meyer lemons are sweeter than other lemons, with an intoxicating aroma that has hints of honey and thyme.

A cross between a lemon and a sweet orange, imported to the U.S. from China 100 years ago by the man whose name it bears, the Meyer lemon is a furiously addictive fruit. With sweeter juice, a thinner peel, less acid and a more floral scent (and taste) than other lemon varieties, Meyers are as much fun to cook with as they would be to paint.

Slide slices of Meyer lemons under the skin of a pair of Cornish game hens, strew the roasting pan with more, then toss in some fennel and olives. Assemble sandwiches of thinly sliced lemons, smoked salmon and sour cream on pumpernickel bread. To a risotto made with mascarpone and parmesan, add some grated Meyer lemon peel. Perfume your sugar bowl by stirring strips of Meyer lemon peel down into the sugar.

Amy Scattergood writes for the Los Angeles Times.

Roasted Cornish Game Hens With Meyer Lemons

Makes 2 servings

4 Meyer lemons (divided use)

2 Cornish game hens, about 1 3/4 to 2 pounds each, washed and dried

2 teaspoons kosher salt

3 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and sliced thinly crosswise

1 1/2 cups olives: half nicoise, half Picholine

8 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

2 tablespoons olive oil

black pepper

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Slice 2 of the lemons paper-thin with a knife or a mandoline. With your fingers, carefully loosen the skin from the meat on the breast side of the hens. Insert 5 or 6 lemon slices underneath the skin of each hen. Put any unused slices and the ends of the lemons into the cavities, and rub the salt equally over the 2 hens.

Cut the remaining 2 lemons into 8 wedges and scatter them in the bottom of a shallow baking pan with the fennel, olives and garlic. Place the hens on top of the fruit and vegetables. Pour the olive oil over the 2 birds, then season with a few grinds of black pepper.

Roast the hens in the oven for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 350 degrees and roast for about 20 minutes longer, or until the meat is firm, the skin is golden and the juices run clear (a thermometer placed into the thickest part of the bird will register 165 degrees); the vegetables and fruit will have started to caramelize. Let the hens rest 15 minutes, then serve them with the roasted lemons, olives and fennel.

Per serving: 1,268 calories, 96 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrate, 13 grams fiber, 81 grams fat, 17 grams saturated fat, 357 milligrams cholesterol, 2,955 milligrams sodium

Recipe analysis provided by the Los Angeles Times.

What you should know

Buying

The Meyer lemon's skin develops an orange hue when the fruit is fully ripe, according to the Web site fourwindsgrowers.com, which sells Meyer lemon trees. Chow.com recommends looking for bright, shiny Meyer lemons and avoiding those that have hard, dry skin or soft spots.

Storing

Meyer lemons will keep for up to 20 days if refrigerated, according to the Texas Produce Association.

Cooking

Rub a Meyer lemon peel around the rim of a demitasse of espresso.

Grate Meyer lemon peel into a bowlful of chantilly cream.

Make classic preserved lemons by filling a Mason jar with quartered Meyer lemons, 1/4 cup of kosher salt and enough lemon juice to cover, and letting them sit in your refrigerator for three weeks.

[ Amy Scattergood and Sun reporter Kate Shatzkin]