Food ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Service ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Atmosphere ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Coined in the early '90s in London (and popularized in New York), the phrase "gastro pub" is supposed to suggest a place with a warm, casual publike atmosphere that offers upscale food. But even so, the name of Columbia's new restaurant, Victoria Gastro Pub, is unfortunate. It sounds too medical to be appealing.

The place has another potential strike against it: its location. It replaces a Bennigan's franchise in a Columbia shopping center, and several people have asked me if it's part of a chain - which it's not.

Poor:]