In the 1900s, cafeterias in Cuban sugar mills began selling a crusty sandwich stuffed with seasoned pork, ham, cheese and sour pickles. The Cuban sandwich has since migrated to the United States, where it has developed several variations. In Key West, Fla., according to 1001 Foods to Die For, the sandwich comes with mayonnaise and tomatoes, and in Tampa, Fla., a layer of Genoa salami is added to it.

A key factor is that the bulging sandwich is pressed in a panini-like oven. This crisps the bread, releases the pickle's juices and melts the cheese. It also makes the sandwich easier to handle.

Babalu Grill

Address --32 Market Place

Phone --410-234-9898

Hours --4 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday

A subtly flavored, perhaps more sophisticated version of this sandwich, $8, had too little mustard and pickle presence for me. The garlic and lime sauce that accompanied the fried yuca, however, bowled me over.

Know of a good carryout place? Let us hear about it. Write to rob.kasper@baltsun.com.