Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

Baltimore's Thai restaurants have always been valued for being small, family-run and authentic. If the dining rooms are a little -- well -- unhip, so much the better.

Nothing wrong with that, but the owners of Lemongrass in Annapolis have come up with a different model. They know that when the space is cool and the servers have funky style, the young and the beautiful will come. When the food is decent and the prices are moderate, everyone will come.

Poor:]