Fresh fish, roasted on a bed of herbs to woo an important date. A simple chocolate mousse made silky with tofu instead of cream. A grilled-cheese sandwich dressed up with Boursin, portobello mushrooms and clarified butter.

As we looked back on the hundreds of recipes we've published in the Taste section in 2007, we found ourselves drawn to the ones that used simple techniques to elevate the classics. These recipes offer a great blend of comfort and surprise.

We've picked 10 of our favorite recipes from this year to share with you one more time. We'll be making them again, well into 2008.

kate.shatzkin@baltsun.com

Chicken With Chipotle-Mulberry Sauce

Makes 2 to 4 servings

When his large mulberry tree started its annual carpeting of the ground last June, writer Harry Merritt decided to see what he could do in the kitchen with his front-yard fruit. One of the delicious results was a sweet and spicy sauce that gave life to chicken. 2 chicken legs with thighs attached

favorite spice rub of choice

1/4 cup red-raspberry vinegar

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 cup crushed mulberries

1 chipotle pepper in adobo, minced

Place the chicken on a plate and sprinkle the rub over it. Cover plate and refrigerate while you prepare the sauce.

In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, garlic, mulberries and chipotle pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and puree if you want a smoother sauce.

Grill the chicken over medium heat for about 12 minutes per side, turning often. Serve the chicken covered with the sauce.

Adapted from fiery-foods.com

Per serving (based on 4 servings): 155 calories, 15 grams protein, 8 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 4 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram fiber, 52 milligrams cholesterol, 84 milligrams sodium

Char Siew (Chinese Barbecued Pork)

Serves 4 to 6

We've always loved takeout Chinese barbecued pork, and were thrilled to come across this recipe while reviewing Tom Kime's book Street Food, which introduces the home cook to casual fare eaten around the world. With just six ingredients, most of which are always in our pantry, this is a go-to recipe that doubles easily to serve a crowd. 3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

1/2 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon rice wine

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

1 1/4 pounds fresh pork shoulder, cut into long strips about 1 1/2 inches thick

Combine the ingredients (except the pork) to make a marinade. Stir well to mix. Place the pork in a glass or ceramic dish, pour in the marinade and refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours. Turn a few times to ensure that the meat is coated by the marinade.

Heat an outdoor grill to medium and place the pork on the grill over indirect heat. (You can also cook this in a grill pan or under a broiler.) Cook the pork for 15 minutes, brushing with the marinade and turning to avoid burning. Serve hot or cold with crisp lettuce and cucumber slices; in salads, soups or stir-fries; or with some chile jam or sambal-style sauce.

From "Street Food" by Tom Kime

Per serving (based on 6 servings): 167 calories, 21 grams protein, 7 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 3 grams carbohydrate, 0 grams fiber, 61 milligrams cholesterol, 846 milligrams sodium

Candy-Bar Cookies

Makes 2 to 3 dozen

For Rosh Hashana, we discovered a local cookie party that's been a holiday tradition for more than half a century. Amy Pollokoff, who makes more than 21 kinds of cookies for the party, got the recipe for this treat from her grandmother, who clipped it from a magazine in 1962. DOUGH:

3/4 cup butter

3/4 cup sifted powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons evaporated milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups sifted flour

CARAMEL FILLING:

1/2 pound light-colored caramels (about 28 pieces)

1/4 cup evaporated milk

1/4 cup butter

1 cup sifted powdered sugar

1 cup chopped pecans

CHOCOLATE ICING:

one 6-ounce package semisweet chocolate chips

1/3 cup evaporated milk

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup powdered sugar

2 to 3 dozen whole pecans

Mix dough ingredients well. Let chill. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Roll out dough and cut into rectangles with a serrated pizza cutter. Place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake for 12 to 16 minutes, watching carefully; cookies should stay white and not overly brown.

For caramel filling, combine caramels and evaporated milk in a double boiler. Heat until caramels melt, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in butter, powdered sugar and pecans.

For chocolate icing, combine chocolate chips and evaporated milk over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in butter, vanilla and powdered sugar.

Once the cookies are cool, layer the toppings in the center of each rectangle, with a heaping teaspoon of caramel filling followed by a heaping teaspoon of chocolate icing, then a whole pecan pressed into the chocolate icing. Let cool until chocolate and caramel mixtures have set up.

Courtesy of Amy Pollokoff

Per cookie (based on 3 dozen): 205 calories, 2 grams protein, 12 grams fat, 5 grams saturated fat, 23 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram fiber, 16 milligrams cholesterol, 43 milligrams sodium

"This autumn salad is without flaws; a delightful way to celebrate apple season," columnist Rob Kasper wrote in October about this creation from a New Orleans chef. Toasted nuts, Comte cheese and a dressing that reduces a cup of apple cider to just 3 tablespoons are the keys to its great flavor.

Autumn Salad With Apples, Comte and Hazelnuts

Serves 4

8 cups mixed greens

1 medium apple (Granny Smith or other tart-firm variety), peeled (optional) and thinly sliced into matchsticks

2 to 3 ounces Comte cheese, cut into matchsticks

1/4 cup sliced celery hearts

Cider Dressing (see recipe)

salt to taste

1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts (or walnuts)

In a large bowl, toss greens, apple, cheese and celery hearts together. Drizzle in enough dressing to lightly coat the salad; reserve the remaining dressing.

Season the salad with a little salt and divide among 4 plates. Sprinkle salad with hazelnuts and drizzle with equal portions of the remaining dressing.

From "Crescent City Cooking" by Susan Spicer

Per serving: 138 calories, 7 grams protein, 9 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 9 grams carbohydrate, 4 grams fiber, 11 milligrams cholesterol, 120 milligrams sodium

Cider Dressing

Makes about 3/4 cup

1 cup apple cider or juice

2 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup olive oil or mild vegetable oil

1 teaspoon hazelnut oil or walnut oil (optional)

salt and pepper to taste

Place the cider and vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until reduced to 3 tablespoons of liquid. Pour it into a small bowl and add the shallots and mustard.

Whisk to combine, then slowly whisk in olive oil and the hazelnut oil, if using. Season with salt and pepper.

From "Crescent City Cooking" by Susan Spicer

Per tablespoon: 91 calories, 0 grams protein, 9 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 3 grams carbohydrate, 0 grams fiber, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 6 milligrams sodium

Grilled Portobello-and-Cheese Sandwich

Makes 1 sandwich

A grilled-cheese sandwich is one of the first meals many of us learned to make. Maybe that's why we find it so comforting. For a March roundup that looked at how restaurants serve this simple sandwich, Oregon Grille executive chef Mark Henry shared his delectable twist on the classic. 2 tablespoons Boursin garlic-and-herb cheese

2 thick slices white bread

6 slices provolone cheese

2 large or 4 small portobello mushroom caps, cleaned and grilled

5 roasted red plum tomatoes

2 1/2 tablespoons butter, melted and clarified (see note)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread Boursin cheese on both slices of white bread. Lay 3 slices of provolone cheese on each slice of bread. Add warm portobello mushroom caps and roasted red plum tomatoes.

Put bread halves together and place in a hot ovenproof pan with clarified butter. Flip once one side has become golden brown and place pan in a 350-degree oven for 3 minutes or until cheese has melted. Slice in half diagonally.

Note: Here's how to make clarified butter, from joyofbaking.com: "Gently melt unsalted butter over low heat until the butter breaks down and three layers form. The top layer is a white foam or froth [the whey proteins] and should be skimmed off with a spoon. The milk solids will drop to the bottom of the saucepan and form a milky layer of sediment. What is left in the middle is a pure golden-yellow liquid called clarified butter."

Courtesy of Mark Henry, executive chef of the Oregon Grille

Per serving: 841 calories, 49 grams protein, 44 grams fat, 27 grams saturated fat, 64 grams carbohydrate, 10 grams fiber, 118 milligrams cholesterol, 1,699 milligrams sodium

Coconut Whipped Cream Cake

Serves 12

A coconut cake is an impressive way to honor Mother any time of the year. In a feature on Mother's Day desserts, freelance writer Elinor Klivans upped the ante with a four-layer version kissed with almond and covered with whipped cream. CAKE:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups whole milk

5 ounces (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

5 large eggs

2 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon almond extract

FILLING AND TOPPING:

4 cups cold heavy (whipping) cream

1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 tablespoons amaretto (almond-flavored liqueur)

4 cups sweetened shredded coconut (divided use)

For the cake: Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter two 9-inch-diameter cake pans with 2-inch-high sides. Line the bottom of each pan with parchment paper and butter the paper. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. Set aside. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and butter over medium heat until the butter melts and the mixture is hot, about 150 degrees if measured on a food thermometer. Do not boil.

In the large bowl of an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the eggs and sugar until the mixture is fluffy, thick and lightened in color, about 3 minutes. Mix in the vanilla and almond extracts.

On low speed, mix in the flour mixture just until it is blended. Slowly add the hot-milk mixture, mixing until it is smooth. Pour the batter into the prepared pans, dividing it evenly.

Bake for about 45 minutes, until the top feels firm when touched lightly and a toothpick inserted into the center of each layer comes out clean.

Let the cakes rest in the pans for 10 minutes, then run a knife around the edge of each pan to loosen the cakes. Invert each cake onto a wire rack. Discard the paper liner. Let the cake layers cool thoroughly.

For the filling and topping: In a large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed, beat the cream, confectioners' sugar, vanilla and amaretto until firm peaks form.

The whipped cream will increase in volume; transfer 5 cups to a medium bowl and fold in 1 1/2 cups of the coconut. Set the remaining whipped cream aside.

Finish: Place a serving plate on the bottom of 1 cake layer and, using the wire rack to hold the cake in place, invert the cake onto the serving plate. The top side of the cake layer will be up. Tuck waxed paper strips just an inch or so under the bottom of the cake all the way around to keep the plate clean.

Use a long serrated knife to cut the cake layer horizontally into 2 even layers. Use the removable bottom of a tart pan to lift up the top half of the cake layer and move it to the side. Spread about 1 1/2 cups of the coconut whipped cream over the cake. Slide the top half of the cake layer carefully over the filling and spread it with another 1 1/2 cups of coconut whipped cream.

Invert the second layer onto another plate or wire rack so it is top side up, cut it horizontally into 2 even layers, and move the top half of the cake layer to the side. Slide the bottom layer onto the filling and spread the remaining coconut whipped cream over the cake.

Slide the remaining top half of the cake layer carefully onto the filling and spread the reserved whipped cream generously over the top and sides of the cake. Sprinkle the remaining coconut over the top and press it on sides of the cake.

Carefully pull out and discard the wax paper strips. Cover carefully and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Serve cold.

Elinor Klivans

Per serving: 829 calories, 9 grams protein, 53 grams fat, 35 grams saturated fat, 83 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber, 225 milligrams cholesterol, 310 milligrams sodium

Tofu Chocolate-Banana Mousse

Makes four 6-ounce servings

When Bette Davidson of Baltimore asked Recipe Finder columnist Julie Rothman to help find a recipe for a chocolate mousse made with tofu, Annie Moore of Easthampton, Mass., sent in this recipe she found on the Internet. This mousse comes together in less than 10 minutes, and your guests will never guess its unexpected ingredients. 8 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 (13.5-ounce) package silken tofu

2 ripe bananas

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler or microwave. Blend tofu and bananas together in a food processor until smooth. Add melted chocolate and blend until color is dark. Before mousse cools, portion into 6-ounce glasses and store in the refrigerator. Chill for about 40 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 416 calories, 12 grams protein, 19 grams fat, 10 grams saturated fat, 57 grams carbohydrate, 5 grams fiber, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 46 milligrams sodium

Stone-Ground Grits With Local Asparagus and Wild Morels

Serves 4 to 6

Humble grits in the low-country tradition are increasingly popular with chefs. Chef Cindy Wolf employs them in many forms at her restaurant, Charleston, in Baltimore. For an article on grits, she shared this recipe, which pairs stone-ground grits with the first vegetables of spring. 4 cups milk

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 cup stone-ground grits

2 bunches asparagus

1 tablespoon melted butter

20 fresh morels or another fresh mushroom such as shiitake, button or portobello

2 tablespoons olive oil

freshly ground black pepper

Bring milk, butter and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Whisk in grits and continue to whisk for first 10 minutes, stirring frequently on low heat. Then switch to a wooden spoon and stir for the next 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, wash asparagus, cut off and discard woody ends and cut the rest into small pieces. Blanch in boiling, salted water. Drain; toss in melted butter and salt to taste.

Wash morels well in 3 separate batches of water and drain. Toss with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Roast at 350 degrees for 12 minutes, or until golden brown. To plate, spoon grits into center and garnish with asparagus and morels.

Courtesy of Cindy Wolf, chef/co-owner of Charleston restaurant

Per serving (based on 6 servings): 299 calories, 13 grams protein, 12 grams fat, 5 grams saturated fat, 37 grams carbohydrate, 4 grams fiber, 23 milligrams cholesterol, 413 milligrams sodium

Roasted Fish in the Greek Style

Serves 2

For Valentine's Day, we presented three love stories in which food had a starring role. Writer Peter Jensen learned the value of keeping things simple when he wooed his future wife with this aromatic roasted salmon. two 8-ounce salmon fillets (any firm-fleshed fish will do)

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus more juice to taste and lemon slices for garnish

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 small bunch of fresh herbs (thyme and oregano work well) (divided use)

white pepper to taste

Rinse the fish and pat it dry. Combine olive oil with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and coat the fish. Sprinkle each fillet with salt. Rub in half the herbs and let marinate for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Pull herbs off fish and use them to make a bed on a rack in a roasting pan. Place fish on top and roast until done (8 to 10 minutes).

Transfer to a platter; spoon over any juices from pan onto fish and season with white pepper to taste. Add a squeeze of lemon and decorate with lemon slices and remaining herbs.

Courtesy of Sun reporter Peter Jensen

Per serving: 438 calories, 53 grams protein, 21 grams fat, 3 grams saturated fat, 8 grams carbohydrate, 4 grams fiber, 143 milligrams cholesterol, 1,076 milligrams sodium

Paella Soup

Serves 4

You might think of paella as a winter dish, but syndicated columnist Betty Rosbottom transformed it into a beautiful summertime soup, still full of the shrimp, chicken and chorizo that paella lovers would expect. Best of all, much of it can be prepared ahead of time. 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped carrot

1/3 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup white rice

1/4 teaspoon saffron strands, crushed

1/2 cup dry white wine

4 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/2 cup heavy or whipping cream

1 pound large, uncooked shrimp, shelled and deveined

3 ounces Spanish chorizo sausage, cut into thin rounds or diced (available in many supermarkets and in Spanish food stores)

1 cup fresh peas, or frozen peas that have been defrosted

1/2 cup diced, cooked chicken, preferably white meat, optional (see note)

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan set over medium heat until hot. Add onion, carrot and celery, and saute until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add rice, saffron, wine and stock, and bring to a simmer. Season with 1 teaspoon salt. Bring mixture to a simmer and reduce heat.

Cover and cook at a simmer until vegetables and rice are soft, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and cool mixture 10 minutes.

Puree the soup in a food processor, blender or food mill and return to the pot. (You also can use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pot.) Stir in the cream. (Soup can be prepared 1 day ahead; cool, cover and refrigerate.) Place over low heat and when mixture comes to a simmer, add shrimp, chorizo, peas and, if desired, chicken.

Cook until shrimp have turned pink and curled, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook or shrimp will become tough. Season with additional salt to taste. Ladle soup into 4 bowls and garnish with a sprinkle of chives.

Note: Columnist Rosbottom uses leftover roast chicken (bought at the supermarket) in this soup, but if you don't have any, you can omit it.

Per serving: 675 calories, 39 grams protein, 42 grams fat, 14 grams saturated fat, 36 grams carbohydrate, 4 grams fiber, 260 milligrams cholesterol, 1,943 milligrams sodium