Food **1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere **** (4 stars)

The best way to approach Cinghiale in Harbor East is as a wine bar. A very ritzy wine bar, to be sure. But wine is where its strengths lie; and while the food certainly isn't an afterthought, it almost feels as if it's there to support the wine, not the other way around. At best, they are equal partners.

By now does anyone interested in restaurants in Baltimore not know that Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf have opened what they call an enoteca (Italian wine bar) and osteria (tavern), and named it the Italian word for wild boar (pronounced "Ching-GYAH-lay")?

Poor:]