2004 Raymond Reserve Merlot

From:

Napa Valley, Calif.

Price:

$24

Serve with:

Roast turkey, red meat

For about two decades, I have been a nonfan of Raymond. The chardonnays have been too oaky, the reds undistinguished. What a surprise then to open this merlot and find a complex, structured, full-bodied, penetrating red wine that hits all the right notes. Its chocolate, black-cherry and sweet oak flavors are pure and pleasing. It has enough backbone to cellar for five to eight years but is quite drinkable now.