Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

West Coast meets France Tersiguel's in Ellicott City has always been one of our serious French restaurants (as opposed to a bistro or cafe) - one of the few left after Jeannier's closed. For years diners have been able to count on getting classics like foie gras or bearnaise sauce there in a decidedly nonhip but pleasing setting, with formal but not stuffy service.

Since I last ate at Tersiguel's, though, there have been changes. The original owner/chef Fernand Tersiguel is semi-retired, and his son Michel has taken over as executive chef. Michel's cooking experience includes time spent on the West Coast, and you can see elements of it in his cuisine. At least I'm assuming that's where dishes like chicken with lemongrass, star anise oil and basmati rice comes from, or the coquille St. Jacques, which doesn't bear even a faint resemblance to the traditional recipe.

Poor:]