Alabama BBQ Company

4311 Harford Road -- Lauraville -- 410-254-1440

Mirchi Wok

6365A Dobbin Road -- Columbia -- 410-730-4689

Entrees $9.95-$18.95

Mango Grove, Columbia's popular vegetarian Indian restaurant, now has an omnivore cousin in Mirchi Wok, which serves hearty, masterfully spiced chicken, seafood and lamb dishes, as well as meat-free entrees.

The restaurants share ownership and a front door, but each has its own kitchen and menu. Though the typical Indian kormas and kebabs are served at Mirchi Wok, so are creations like the rarra laal maas, a rich stew that marries the earthy flavors of both ground lamb and chunks of lamb with a heady mix of spices.

Also good are the flavorful and tender tandoori chicken, served on the bone, and the pudhina pahadi tikka, large chunks of white-meat chicken marinated in yogurt and coated in cilantro and other spices for a tender and flavorful result.

Mirchi Wok feels like a restaurant in a shopping center - because that's what it is - but the reasonable prices and terrific service make up for the less-than-spectacular setting. (KN)