2005 Souverain Merlot

From:

Alexander Valley, Calif.

Price:

$19

Serve with:

Red meat, roast chicken, game birds

Many California merlots seem to have no reason to exist because they are so similar - though usually less satisfying - to the same producer's cabernet sauvignon. Souverain's merlot is smooth and creamy, well-differentiated from cabernet. There are real echoes of Bordeaux's Pomerol region in its lush flavors and its "steel fist in a velvet glove" texture. The black cherry and plum fruit is seasoned with Asian spice flavors such as clove, cinnamon and nutmeg, with a touch of vanilla. It's delightful now, but has the backbone to age well for up to a decade.