Louise Pantall, one of the owners of a tiny new barbecue restaurant in Lauraville called Alabama BBQ Company, seems very nice. She's a registered nurse, and when she's not busy healing people, she's behind the counter of the wood-floored, two-table establishment, a blur of motion as she answers phones, makes sure everybody has enough sauces and sides, offers menu suggestions (she likes the Alabama white sauce on the pulled chicken sandwich, and the raspberry glaze with the ribs) and just chats with customers.

But don't let that kindly exterior fool you. Pantall is a naughty person. How else to explain those densely sweet whoopee pies ($2.50) she makes from scratch, or that butter-laden graham-cracker crust on her Key lime pie ($3.50)?

Poor:]