Beef Shakes reminds me of one of those old-fashioned hamburger shacks that are so hard to find these days: the ones open only in the summer, and usually near beaches and lakes, where everyone walks up to the outdoor counter barefoot to order their lunch.

The major differences: It has a more extensive menu and a less bucolic location, on bustling Old Hanover Road. Also, Beef Shakes is open year-round.

Poor:]