If a Baltimore restaurant has a view of the Inner Harbor that rivals any in the city, it's as important a selling point as a great crab cake - at least judging from the requests I get. The new Watertable, a redo of what used to be Windows in the Renaissance Harborplace Hotel, has a good, if not great, crab cake. The view, however, is nothing short of spectacular.
With the redesign, the hotel din ing room is no longer staid but sleekly contemporary, with lots of wood and glass. It's handsome and a bit impersonal, the way good-looking hotel dining rooms tend to be. Of course, the tables by the floor-to-ceiling windows are most desirable, but every seat in the house now has a view of the harbor.
Fair or Uneven: Poor:]