Upscale grocers once bypassed Baltimore and its working-class roots, but gourmet supermarkets with their artisan cheeses and fancy meats increasingly are making the area home.
The latest is Greensboro, N.C.-based The Fresh Market, which plans to open its first Maryland store today in The Shops at Quarry Lake, a mixed-use development built on a former rock and gravel mine on Greenspring Avenue in Baltimore County.
The Fresh Market models itself on the open-air markets in Europe. Its grocery stores are much smaller than traditional supermarkets in a design built on the hopes that shoppers will make frequent visits for the gourmet foods that are offered.
The Fresh Market joins several other upscale grocers that have moved to the Baltimore area in recent years, including Whole Foods Markets Inc., Trader Joe's and Wegmans Food Markets Inc.
"People are paying attention to the demographic here and responding to the demand," said Geoffrey Mackler, a principal with H&R; Retail, the retail broker for The Shops at Quarry Lake.
Also, upscale grocers and other retailers are looking for new places to locate as they work to expand beyond their home cities, retail experts said.
Public officials also have become better at marketing the region, attending events such as the International Council of Shopping Centers annual convention to try to woo new retailers. And across the nation, fresh food markets are taking market share from conventional grocery stores as people develop fancier tastes in food.
Conventional supermarkets had 12.4 percent of the grocery market in 2004, according to the Food Marketing Institute. That's expected to drop to 10.4 percent by 2009. The fresh, organic market had 0.6 percent of the market in 2004, but that is supposed to inch up to 0.8 percent.
Even traditional grocery stores have taken a cue from their gourmet competitors, offering more upscale options such as prepared foods and natural products.
"There is a lot of competition out there," said Jamie Miller, a spokesman for Giant Food in Landover. "The competition is growing and that's great for consumers and it's forcing us to be that much better."
Giant, the region's largest supermarket chain, has introduced new store prototypes, added more upscale food offerings and slashed many of its prices in response to new competitors.
For a long time, Baltimore was perceived by many retailers as a town in the shadows of Washington that couldn't support upscale shopping. When Saks Fifth Avenue abruptly left Owings Mills Mall in 1995, some saw it as a sign that the area couldn't support upscale retail.
Some of that image has started to lift as people look at the region's wealthier counties such as Howard, Carroll and Baltimore, economists said. As stores such as Wegmans have found success in the market, other retailers have felt more comfortable moving in.
"As a region, Baltimore is one of the nation's most affluent and most educated, and therefore it is an ideal market for high-end retail," said Anirban Basu, an economist and chief executive officer of Sage Policy Group Inc. in Baltimore.
Basu also said Baltimore often is considered as a spot where retailers build only after they've succeeded in larger cities such as Washington or New York. Retailers such as Filene's Basement, Urban Outfitters and Swedish clothing store H&M; have just started to move into the market in recent years.
The Fresh Market opening in Baltimore County will be the 70th for the grocer. The company said it chose the location in part because of the region's affluence.
"It's a vibrant area with a great customer base, great demographics and appreciation for food and service," said Craig Carlock, chief operating officer of the gourmet market chain.
The Fresh Market tries to create stores that are similar to open-air markets in Paris or London. Classical music is played throughout the store. Fresh flowers in baskets line the entranceways. Butchers cut the meat for customers; there is no prepackaged hamburger or chicken.
The stores are small, 20,000 to 25,000 square feet, and are designed so customers can get in and out quickly, executives said. The company carries fine cheeses, gourmet pasta sauces and fancy desserts, among other items.
"People can expect a great food experience," Carlock said. "We design small stores that encourage customers and employees to interact, talk about and taste good food."
andrea.walker@baltsun.com