Ice Creams & Sorbets
By Lou Seibert Pappas
The Perfect Scoop
Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas and Sweet Accompaniments
By David Lebovitz
Ten Speed Press / 2007 / $24.95
Previously of Chez Panisse fame, David Lebovitz now cooks and blogs in Paris and here brings us his fourth book about all things ice cream. Let's rephrase that; all things ice cream and just about everything related to ice cream, including mix-ins like peppermint patties (yes, homemade) and "vessels" like profiteroles and crepes.
Lebovitz spans the globe with his recipes, including the likes of Vietnamese Coffee Ice Cream; Kinako (a Japanese flavor); and Gianduja Gelato, a hazelnut specialty in the Piedmont region of Italy.
Here's the trick with most of the recipes: Don't forget to read (and remember) the informative basics section or you could end up one of those people (read: me) who messes up the ice-cream custard, the basic cooking step for nearly all the ice-cream recipes. Unfortunately, the directions that are in the actual recipes don't adequately explain the steps.
I've only had olive oil ice cream once and it was a surprisingly divine taste. I was hoping to replicate it myself, but during the all-too-important custard step I overcooked the egg mixture, leaving me with a far too custardy-tasting concoction.
Fortunately, for the White Chocolate Ice Cream recipe, I got the custard step down perfectly, leaving me with a velvety smooth and delicious treat. Who says white chocolate isn't the real thing?
sumathi.reddy@baltsun.com
Nectarine-Ginger Frozen Yogurt
-- Makes about 1 quart
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup sugar
one 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 pound ripe nectarines or peaches (about 3 nectarines or peaches)
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups unflavored 2-percent or full-fat yogurt
1/3 cup diced crystallized ginger
Combine the water, sugar and fresh ginger in a saucepan and bring to a boil, dissolving the sugar. Cook until the syrup is clear.
Remove from the heat and steep for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture into a larger saucepan, throwing away the ginger.
Halve and pit the nectarines (or peel the peaches) and coarsely chop them. Add them to the syrup, along with the honey and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and cook on high heat, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is soft or for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
Transfer to a container and stir in the yogurt and crystallized ginger. Cover and refrigerate until well-chilled, about 3 hours. Freeze in an ice-cream maker, per manufacturer's instructions.
Or, pour the mixture into a 9-inch nonreactive square pan. Cover with aluminum foil or plastic wrap and freeze just until solid, 2 to 3 hours. Scrape out into an electric mixer or food processor and process briefly until light and fluffy. Serve immediately or transfer to a container, cover and freeze until firm, about 2 hours.
From "Ice Creams & Sorbets"
Per serving ( 1/2 cup): 142 calories, 4 grams protein, 1 gram fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 31 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram fiber, 4 milligrams cholesterol, 46 milligrams sodium