GOOD, CLEAN FUN IN ... THE POCONOS

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Say "Poconos" and for many people, the word "gaudy" almost automatically comes to mind.

It is, after all, the place where Morris Wilkins invented and installed the world's first heart-shaped tub in 1963. The Pennsylvania resort area is also a place known as the "honeymoon capital of the world," where champagne glass-shaped spas are sometimes the prelude -- or finale, depending on your inclination -- to a night of romance. And for some odd reason, it's a place that seems to bring to mind sappy family-themed resorts that offer never-ending games of pinochle and shuffleboard.

But if you haven't already heard, that reputation is undeserved.

It's not that a high level of cheese doesn't exist in the Poconos. It's just that the area also offers much more than that, such as skiing, snowboarding, shopping, hunting, stock-car racing, horseback riding, music and dining, and just about any other activity that suits your fancy.

Skip the northeastern mountains of Pennsylvania because of some age-old mischaracterization and you will find that you're missing out big-time on what can be a fun-filled, affordable and relaxing weekend getaway just a few hours north of Baltimore.

With a $500 budget and a sense of fun and adventure in mind, my companion and I were ready to discover what the Poconos had to offer.

Our little wintry adventure started on a recent crisp and cold Saturday, after a long spell of unseasonably warm temperatures. With dreams of snow dancing in our heads, we were hoping that the blast of arctic air would bring with it plenty of snow on the slopes.

The drive up is a bit of a trek at a little more than three hours, but once you make it past Harrisburg, Pa., the scenery alone is worth it as you cruise past hills, expansive valleys, blue ice-covered rock formations and even majestic farms of slow-spinning windmills.

While there are plenty of places to stop and stretch your legs or get a bite to eat, we paused just once to fill up on about $40 worth of gas. Determined to make good time even while we enjoyed the view of the landscape, we packed the car full of coffee and snacks to keep us on the road.

It was a good move since we hit Fernwood Hotel and Resort in Bushkill by early afternoon. Most lodging establishments required a two-night stay, but we found flexibility at Fernwood, where there was a 125-room hotel (not to mention timeshare villas) and several activity centers on 440 acres. Bordered by the beautiful Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, the resort boasts everything from paintball adventures for the young and young-at-heart to an 18-hole golf course for those who prefer a slower, less-painful pace. Our one-night stay was less than $260 and included ski lift tickets at nearby Camelback Mountain Resort, which was the clincher for us.

Everything you need

Initially, we had plans to tour as much of the surrounding area as possible. Once we got to the resort, however, we found that what we liked most about Fernwood was that we didn't have to leave the hotel to find entertainment.

We quickly dropped off our gear in the room, then stopped in at the Trolley Stop Pub to relax while we listened to live music -- a nice, burly gentleman crooning soft rock classics. Next, we headed straight for Fernwood's Fun Center, where guests pay $21 per person (or group rates of $19) on weekends for two hours of snow tubing. Despite the fact that we felt a bit dorky being what seemed like the only adults there without a gaggle of kids tailing along, we found sailing down a slippery slope on top of an inflated tire tube to be a wicked good time.

Even better was warming up afterward in the Wintergreens Patio Grill, where a nice big fire and warm drinks brought the feeling back into our numb toes.

Nearly all resorts in the Pocono Mountains offer some sort of ski package in the winter, and most of them have snow tubing facilities right on their property. For those looking for distractions all year long, most resorts such as Fernwood offer activities throughout the four seasons, including horseback riding, canoeing, rafting, and access to swimming pools and fitness centers, as well as live entertainment and other events.

With its close proximity to New Jersey and New York, the Poconos is practically a Hamptons West for such urbanites.

"It's a great place to live, and great place to visit," Brian Antonik, a 34-year-old welder from Stanhope, N.J., said as we watched kids fly down the snow tube chutes outside. "We came up to visit my brother-in-law and everything is so much cheaper here. Plus, there's always something to do."

His brother-in-law, Charlie Eaton, told us the winter season has been a little slow because of warm weather, but resorts have started picking up vacation business again as the temperatures have dropped.

"It's great because you've got skiing at Elk Mountain and Camelback that's just as nice as what you might find in Vermont, but without the high prices," said Eaton, a 37-year-old meeting manager who lives near Fernwood. "That cheesy old image of the Poconos is a thing of the past. There are a lot of young families from New Jersey and New York here, plenty of nice restaurants and lots of outdoors stuff to keep you busy. It's wide, open space."

The pull of the outdoors and family fun lured Jerriline Morris to drive 5 1 / 2 hours to the Poconos from Youngstown, Ohio. Accompanying her was her daughter and grandson as they began the week enjoying Fernwood's ice cream and balloon art socials and tiny tots snow tubing.

"Every day we're doing something different," Morris said. "It's the first time we've been here and the 3-year-old loves it."

We had to admit, we were loving it, too.

That night, we enjoyed a nice Italian dinner at Mama Bella's Tuscan Grille in the resort's main building. Afterward, we could have joined late-night carousers in the Trolley pub to groove with a live rhythm and blues band, but instead, chose to hang with the kids.

Between a truly ancient Ms. Pac-Man and several high-tech shoot-em up video machines, we had our pick of pool tables, stock-car racing or war games in the game room -- although we were crushed that the skeeball machines were out of order. Even though we were surrounded by mostly young children, challenging our motor skills in a warm arcade seemed like the perfect light-hearted way to end a pleasant day in the mountains.

Time to explore

The next morning, we hopped into the car and wound our way around Bushkill, passing by the Pocono Bazaar, which is open every weekend year-round with more than 500 vendors pushing all sorts of art, jewelry, linens, clothing, luggage, purses and even groceries. Just down the road was the Pocono Indian Museum, which advertises itself as "the only Northeastern Pennsylvania museum that is dedicated to showing the history of the Delaware Indian."

Instead of hopping right back onto the highway, we detoured through the nearby town of Stroudsburg, which was incorporated in 1815 and relies on an economy based almost exclusively on tourism, according to visitpa.com. It was still too early on a sleepy Sunday morning to visit the many pubs we saw along its cute Main Street sidewalks, but the town sported several artsy shops and quaint historic buildings.

We didn't dawdle for long, though, since we were determined to make it to the slopes before the crowds.

Camelback, the region's largest ski area, was an easy 15-minute drive away. The resort offers 33 slopes and trails that are equipped with lights for night skiing, 13 lifts that include two high-speed quad chairlifts, 100 percent snow-making capability, two terrain parks, two half-pipes and a 10-chute snow tubing park.

Camelback, of course, offers equipment rentals, but visitors might want to check out nearby ski shops that offer better pricing. I rented my skis, while my companion already had a pair.

Hard-core ski bums can enjoy 800-foot vertical drops and a 1.2-mile run, but Camelback also has a lot to offer for us beginners with two bunny slopes and several group or one-on-one classes with instructors, who work with all ability levels.

As it was my first time on skis, I fell three times -- spending more time on my rear than actually skiing during my initial trip down the bunny slope. I didn't wipe out anymore that day, but I did almost take out a small child, my ski bum-mate and a bunch of cars when I discovered that I had a crippling inability to make right turns. I finally gave up when, during my last run down, I dropped a ski pole and it took me 15 excruciating minutes to work my way back just five feet to pick it up.

Others were faring somewhat better.

Mark Wozniak, who lives in Bayville, N.J., was watching his 11-year-old son with much anxiety as Kyle threatened to perform a jump on a rented snowboard after a single 1 1 / 2 -hour lesson that morning. Even though Kyle received a good report card after the $82 lesson, his fearlessness wasn't enough to calm his father's nerves.

"He scares the hell out of me," said Wozniak, 43, who was a first-time visitor to the ski resort and who rated the father-son day trip as a huge success.

Expending all that energy on the slopes, of course, calls for nourishment and hot toddies to replenish the soul. We found that at Camelback's restaurant and lounge, which was bustling with young and old skiers who were partaking in pricey beer and filling foods such as gourmet pizza and fat burgers.

The amenities and fare met with Ronnie Harmon's hearty approval.

The country club chef from Long Island, N.Y., came to ski hard for the day before heading back home.

"It's nice for the price and well-groomed," said Harmon, 39, who was resting after 13 runs nonstop. "The conditions are really good. Some of the other places, you end up waiting in line for half an hour, but here, everything moves pretty fast and it's not too crowded. I ski in Tahoe a lot and I have to say, I'm impressed.

"It's definitely money well-spent."

We couldn't have agreed more with that assessment as we drove home with the setting sun sinking behind the mountain, turning the sky a gorgeous purplish blue and orange.

dan.thanh.dang@baltsun.com

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

The Poconos are less than a four-hour drive from Baltimore. Take Interstate 83 north to Harrisburg. Take Interstate 81 north to Interstate 78 east. Then take Route 22 east past Allentown to Route 33 north. Take Route 209 north to Interstate 80 east to PA Exit 309 (formerly Exit 52) to Route 209 north.

LODGING

Fernwood Hotel and Resort -- Box 447, Bushkill, Pa., 18324. 888-337-6966. A 440-acre resort with lots of onsite amenities, including winter sports, golf, horseback riding, indoor and outdoor pools, fitness center, themed restaurants and more. Accommodations include rooms, suites and villas. Overnight rates for traditional rooms start at $119 per room. Seasonal packages and discounts available online at resortsusa.com/fernwood.php.

DINING

Mama Bella's Tuscan Grille -- Fernwood Hotel and Resort. 570-588-9500, ext. 4122. Casual dining with homemade Italian specialties, including pasta and seafood. Entrees start at $12.95.

Trolley Stop Pub -- Fernwood Hotel and Resort. Live music and typical pub food.

ACTIVITIES

Camelback Ski Area -- Tannersville, Pa., 18372. 570-629-1661. More than 150 acres of terrain offering 33 ski trails and two terrain parks and half-pipes for snowboarding. All areas are lighted for nighttime use. Lift tickets cost $26-$55, depending on time and day of visit. Value days and package discounts available online at skicamelback.com. The area is also home to Camelbeach Waterpark, which opens in late May. For details go to camelbeach.com.

INFORMATION

Pocono Mountains Vacation Bureau -- 1004 Main St., Stroudsburg, Pa., 18360. 800-POCONOS (800-762-6667) or 800poconos.com.

HOW THE MONEY WAS SPENT

Hotel with ski lift tickets for two -- $258.33

Meals for two -- $151.81 Snow tube rental for two -- $38

Ski rental for one -- $27.55

Gas -- $40

TOTAL -- $515.69

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