Beringer long has been an oasis of quality in the chardonnay desert. I was disappointed by the winery's rather tarted-up regular bottling of Napa Valley chardonnay this year, but the Stanly Ranch bottling from the Los Carneros area is a model of delicacy, balance and flavor intensity. The notes of apple, lemon, nuts and subtle oak all come together in a classic Burgundian fashion. It's a wine with both power and finesse, and the equivalent of many at twice the price. Serve with salmon, ham.