2004 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($24)
This winery is not the industry leader it was back in the 1980s, but this cabernet sauvignon is a strong showing for the brand - now part of Australia's Foster's Group empire. It's a lush, full-bodied red wine with impressive length and complexity. The flavors are typical California cabernet: black cherry, black currant and hints of vanilla. It's drinkable now but will repay five to 10 years of cellaring. Serve with beef, lamb.