At Mr. Bill's, the crab is king

THE BALTIMORE SUN

It's sad but true that this time of year the city's crab houses have been taken over by tourists. You may have to travel to find a place out-of-towners haven't discovered, one where the art of picking crabs is understood. (Hint: The mallet is used sparingly.)

I suggest Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn, Crab House & Sports Bar in Essex. First of all, great name. Mr. Bill never owned the place, apparently. His son, Steve Eliades, named the restaurant after him when it opened in 1954. There is no terrace involved, of course, or even any windows for that matter. As for the inn part - well, words fail.

Poor:]

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