2004 Trevor Jones Virgin Chardonnay, South Australia ($15)

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Does a chardonnay need the flavoring imparted by aging in oak barrels to yield a fine wine? This Australian winery's answer is no, and this wine delivers the goods in the form of a vibrant, complex, dry white that lets the character of the fruit shine through. It offers crystalline, distinct, yet subtle flavors of apples, pear, peach and lemon. Its finish is long and crisp, and it should pair with food better than most Australian chardonnays. Serve with seafood, from shrimp on the barbie to salmon.

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