2003 Murphy-Goode "Liar's Dice" Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($20). This lush, decadent, powerful California red wine is not for the faint of palate. If brawn and high alcohol offend you, avoid it. But if you like a wine with big shoulders and a complex mix of flavors -- blackberry, black raspberry, black pepper, herbs, smoked meat and barbecue sauce -- it could be right up your alley. The 14.5 percent alcohol is well-concealed by the wine's abundant fruit. Serve the zinfandel with food that can fight back: barbecue, grilled steak or lamb, or pasta with a rich tomato-based sauce.