2004 Gallo of Sonoma Pinot Gris, Sonoma County ($13). Gallo continues its "up-from-Thunderbird" quality drive with this truly impressive pinot gris, a tremendous value at this price. Pinot gris, known in Italy as pinot grigio, is a white varietal that yields wine with body comparable to a chardonnay but with less need of oak flavoring. This full-bodied version offers generous flavors of lemon, apple, nuts, herbs, minerals and sweet peas. It's a complex, gripping wine with admirable length and smooth texture. It would be best matched with a firm-fleshed fish such as salmon or swordfish.