2004 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare ($11). It's pink, it comes with a screw cap and a screwy label and it's a wonderful, sophisticated wine. This dry California rose, made primarily from southern French varieties, rivals the finest pink wines of the Rhone and Provence. Its color is a bright orange-pink, its aroma is floral and it's remarkably full-bodied for a rose. The flavors of strawberries, rosehips and herbs are fresh and vibrant. Best drunk before Labor Day, it is an ideal summer wine that will pair well with grilled seafood (especially salmon), fried chicken or spicy Asian foods.