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WINE OF THE WEEK

THE BALTIMORE SUN

2004 Castello Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano ($13). This well-made, surprisingly full-bodied Italian white wine exhibits the characteristic nutty flavor of vernaccia in a most appealing way. Pear, apple, lemon and honey nuances also make their appearance, and the texture is creamy without getting flabby. You could serve this with the types of foods you'd serve with chardonnay - salmon or ham, for instance. I'd be tempted to pair it with recipes with a nutty component - kung pao, satay or almondine dishes, for instance.

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