Good pickin's at Kloby's

THE BALTIMORE SUN

I am a simple fool for barbecue. So, I was pleased to hear about Kloby's Backyard Barbeque in Woodlawn.

Kloby's has been open for about seven months in a small shopping plaza not far from Security Square Mall. And I wish it nothing but smoke-filled success, as one can never have too many good barbecue joints.

On a recent visit, neon beckoned from the front window; inside, wooden picnic tables gave the small seating area something of a backyard feel. A row of plants lined one side of the kitchen; banners for the Ravens, Orioles and Terps hung above.

Kloby's menu features most of your barbecue staples - pulled pork, ribs (both pork and beef), turkey, chicken and brisket, as well as a bunch of side dishes. We tried just about everything and liked almost everything.

A big heap of pork ribs ($15.99) were meaty and reasonably tender, and coated with a tangy sauce (mild sauce is also available). A pulled-pork sandwich ($5.99) had plenty of meat soaked in a vinegary and tasty sauce - a winner.

A couple of the official tasters devoured a half chicken ($6.49), which had been smoked and nicely flavored. We missed out, alas, on the Texas toast that the menu said came with the chicken because the server forgot to put it with our order.

On an impulse, we tried a smoked sausage sub ($5.99), which came with onions, peppers and barbecue sauce. Nothing to complain about there. Various side orders - fries ($2.89) and macaroni and cheese ($1.39) - were quite good.

We weren't so crazy about the catfish fingers ($4.99), deep-fried strips of fish in a cornmeal batter; they lacked sizzle and didn't survive the long drive home very well.

Kloby's has several pies to add a sweet note after all the hot and vinegary stuff. We opted for sweet potato pie ($1.67). While it would not draw raves from anybody's grandmother, it was fresh enough and perfectly adequate.

Kloby's is easy to get to from Security Boulevard; there's plenty of parking out front.

Kloby's Backyard Barbeque

Food: ***

Service: ***

Waiting area: ***1/2

Parking: ***

Where: Dogwood Station Shopping Center, 2327 N. Rolling Road, Woodlawn

Phone: 410-298-7931

Web site: www.klobys bbq.com

Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday and Friday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Sandwiches, subs, chicken, turkey and ribs, $4.99 to $15.99; credit cards accepted

Outstanding: ****; Good: ***; Fair or uneven: **; Poor: *

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