2000 Guenoc North Coast Petite Sirah ($17). This blockbuster red wine from the underrated petite sirah grape stages a wrestling match between fruit and tannin, but after a bit of struggle the fruit triumphs. The wine bursts with powerful flavors of blackberry, game, chocolate and herbs. It's a keeper that could age a decade or more, but with a little breathing it's accessible now. Enjoy this winter-weight wine with a beef roast, game, lamb or a hearty stew.
Michael Dresser's monthly wine column will no longer appear in Taste. Please look for wine coverage in Rob Kasper's column and in our continuing Wine of the Week reviews.