2001 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Canoe Ridge Estate, Columbia Valley ($24). Washington state is becoming an increasingly reliable source of complex, impressive cabernet sauvignons. This full-bodied but elegant single-vineyard wine offers strong competition to its California counterparts at a very fair price. Its flavors are a fusion of styles, with hints of Napa Valley-style chocolate and Bordeaux-style cedar seasoning the black-currant and black-cherry fruit. It strikes just the right balance between aging potential and accessibility. This is a classic red-meat wine, best served with a serious carnivore's dish such as leg of lamb or prime rib.