2003 Preston of Dry Creek Vin Gris, Rose Table Wine, Dry Creek Valley ($10). Summer is the time of year to enjoy dry, crisp rose wines - and California is now producing some of the finest pink wines in the world. They may lack snob appeal, but roses such as this one deliver plenty of flavor without the cloying sweetness that has given the category a bad name. This wine exudes gripping flavors of strawberry, cherry and herbs and finishes clean and long. It would be a fine companion to grilled seafood or can stand on its own as an aperitif.