Wine of the week


2002 Hugel "Cuvee Les Amours" Pinot Blanc de Blancs ($14). This fresh, stylish, medium-bodied, dry white wine offers vibrant flavors of melons, lemon, nuts, coconut, bananas and sweet peas. That's a lot of flavor for a wine of modest price, but it's typical of Alsace pinot blancs from reliable producers -- and Hugel certainly qualifies. Serve it with seafood, or enjoy it all by its lonesome.

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