2002 Goldwater Roseland Chardonnay, Marlborough ($23). This stylish, refreshingly cool chardonnay takes it easy on the oak and lets the fruit shine through to great effect. It displays intense sweet pea, chalk, apple and pear flavors and a snappy touch of white pepper. It's amazing how complex and lively chardonnay can be when the winemaker doesn't monkey with it. This would go well with grilled salmon or other flavorful seafood dishes.