2002 Rancho Zabaco Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($16). The well-made, full-bodied wine is just right for early fall - more serious than a summer sipping wine but still a lively white. It offers persistent flavors of figs, melon and pears, with a definite herbal edge that steers clear of extremes (no resemblance to New Zealand sauvignon). It's a moderately complex wine from one of the Gallo empire's better properties. It would be best served with grilled salmon or swordfish, as well as creole-style foods.