ATLANTA - Just a stone's throw from the Georgia Dome, a man named Bubba stands next to his motor home, wearing an orange windbreaker. He has a can of beer in his hand and the Tennessee Volunteers on his mind.

"You ever been to our stadium back in Knoxville?" asks Bubba, whose real name is Bobby Grindle. "You need to go. It is awesome. Once you get in there, 107,000 people, you'll understand. Now, that's football."

Grindle would know. He's part of a select group of Tennessee fans who would follow the Volunteers anywhere. As proof, Grindle whips out a faded orange hat from his motor home that has a pin on it from just about every bowl game Tennessee has played in over the past 20 years. He even has a tattered ticket pinned to it from the last time the Vols were in the Peach Bowl, in 1988.

"This here is an artifact," Grindle says. "I only bring it out at bowl time. It'll cost you if you look at it over a minute."

"This right here," jokes Steve Miller, "is the reason why everyone thinks we're rednecks."

Nearby, Chuck and Regina Butcher are on the cell phone giving directions to some friends trying to find the Georgia Dome, while Harold and LaVaughan Heath are trying to remember just whom Tennessee played in the 1951 Cotton Bowl, when they started following the Vols. (It was Texas, and the Vols won, 20-14.) These are the diehards, and they like to get here early.

"Oh, there'll be plenty more coming," Grindle says.

There always are. Though Maryland fans have turned out in impressive fashion this week for the Terps' second straight bowl appearance, for Tennessee fans, following the team away from home is old hat.

For an important Southeastern Conference regular-season road game, Tennessee has been known to bring 35,000 fans into another team's stadium. And though many Terps fans may live double lives as Ravens supporters, the NFL Titans are little more than an afterthought to the true Volunteers fan.

"The Titans?" Grindle says with mock shock. "They asked if they could use Tennessee's field not too long ago, but the school said, 'No, thanks.' They didn't want to mess up the turf."

With the diehards to every game comes barbecues, beer, pride and passion. And plenty of opinions, ranging from Vols offensive coordinator Randy Sanders (whom they don't like) to ESPN, which will broadcast the game tonight (they like the network even less).

"ESPN likes to call us trailer trash," says Crysty Nunley with a laugh. "We don't care too much for them, either."

In fact, many Tennessee fans still hold ESPN responsible for Michigan's Charles Woodson winning the Heisman Trophy in 1998 over Vols quarterback Peyton Manning.

"He just wasn't the same quality of person that Peyton Manning was," says LaVaughn Heath. "But they were pushing for him all season."

And many Tennessee fans were furious with a tongue-in-cheek commercial this year for ESPN's College Game Day, in which analyst Lee Corso watched as a hotel elevator opened to reveal an overweight woman in a shower cap chasing after her pet pig, "Rocky Top."

"I laughed it off," says Chuck Butcher. "But it made my son so angry every time he saw it."

And don't get them started on the poor play-calling of Tennessee offensive coordinator Sanders, the "immature" Georgia fans or the Alabama fans who egged their motor homes this year. They've even still got plenty to say about former Florida coach Steve Spurrier, now of the Washington Redskins.

"Spurrier?" Grindle says with a grin. "I better show you my official 'Gator-Hater' pin."

Mostly though, it has been a frustrating year for the diehards. While Maryland fans look upon their 10-3 season with pride, Tennessee's 8-4 campaign has been nothing but painful, not to mention expensive. To get season tickets, you have to donate $1,000 to the university, then pay at least $38 a game for even the cheapest ticket.

"There would be a lot more people here, but a lot of fans are pretty disappointed with the season we've had," Miller says. "I know I am. I feel sick for two or three days after a loss."

As for Maryland, Tennessee fans say they're wary of the Terps. Though the Vols were picked by many to contend for the national title, even their own fans expect their team to have its hands full tonight.

"I think Maryland has a very good coach, a very good offense and tremendous special teams," Chuck Butcher says. "I hope we're ready to play them."

If not, they'll tip back a few beers and tell a few jokes before heading home. There's always next year.

"Of course, next year we lose our whole defensive line," Miller says.

"And I hear we're not having a very good year recruiting," Harold Heath adds sadly.

No matter. They'll be there anyway.