The Woman's Industrial Exchange has been a Baltimore institution for 122 years. But on Jan. 18, the restaurant is closing its doors. Not to worry, though. If everything goes as scheduled, those doors - at 333 N. Charles St. - will reopen to a freshened-up eatery no later than April 1.

Manager Mary Brown says that, thanks to a two-year fund-raising drive and HUD money, the Exchange is getting a much-needed renovation. She says both the hot and cold kitchens will undergo "a complete gut rehab from floor to ceiling." Both will be completely modernized, with new appliances replacing those that have been there probably since the 1950s.

Also noteworthy, says Brown, is the fact that the building will be made handicap-accessible, with a ramp, an elevator to the dining room and redone bathrooms.

"We're doing a gentle facelift in the dining room," Brown adds. "The lady needs a fresh coat of paint." In addition, the acoustical-tile drop ceiling in the dining room is being taken out, and a replica of the Exchange's original tin ceiling will be put in.

The restaurant will still be the same Woman's Industrial Exchange many folks have loved all these years, however.

"You will still recognize us. [The Exchange] will still have the traditional women's teahouse feel, but it'll be much more comfy," Brown says.

Omakase, anyone?

Omigosh, it's "omakase" every Wednesday at Federal Hill's Soigne. Say what? Is this another new game show? No, just a new adventure in dining for Baltimore.

Lisa Heckman, who owns Soigne with husband/chef Edward Kim, says omakase is a concept dreamed up by the chef at New York's super-trendy restaurant Nobu.

The way Soigne has interpreted it, every Wednesday, in addition to making selections from the restaurant's regular dinner menu, you have the option of choosing the omakase dinner, for which Kim creates four different courses using the same meat or fish ingredient in each. A week ago, it was rack of baby lamb. Two weeks ago, the ingredient was scallops. Who knows what it'll be next week.

"It's essentially a blind tasting," Heckman says, "with four courses that are total surprises." (A fifth course features cheese.)

It's not only fun for eaters, Heckman says, but also gives Kim a weekly opportunity to flex his culinary muscle.

The omakase dinner is $68 per person, $73 if you choose to have the wine/sake pairings with each course.

Soigne is at 554 E. Fort Ave. Hours are 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Part of the inn-crowd

For those who love cooking, eating and winter getaways, the Kent Manor Inn has a great deal. During the next three months, chef Dennis Shakan will offer two-day cooking classes combined with two-night stays at the Eastern Shore inn.

Here's how it works: You check into the inn and sit down to a nice dinner. The next morning - after eating a continental breakfast - you have your first class. You cook a meal, then eat it for lunch. In the afternoon, you cook another meal and - you guessed it - have that food for dinner. On the third day, you prepare your final meal after breakfast, eat it, review everything you've learned, then take off.

Classes are limited to 15 people, and the main focus is on sauteing. The cost is $499 per person. If you bring along a partner, it's $799 for the two of you. If your partner doesn't want to cook but wants to eat the results, the price is $200. And if he or she wants to come along but not partake in the meals, it's $99 for the two nights. The cooking-class dates are Jan. 17-19, Jan. 24-26, Feb. 19-21, Feb. 28-March 2, and March 12-14.

Kent Manor Inn is at 500 Kent Manor Drive in Stevensville, right off U.S. 50. It's 42 miles from Baltimore. Call 800-820-4511.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions by fax to Sloane Brown at 410-675-3451, or by e-mail to sloane@livetabletalk.com.