For more than a decade I invited friends to our house for New Year's Eve dinner. But last year, feeling burnt out, I suggested to my husband that we forgo entertaining on Dec. 31 and eat out instead. We did, and I confess that I was disappointed. Although we had a lovely meal, I missed creating the menu, setting a festive table and inviting others to our home to enjoy this special night.

This year I've decided to reinstate my annual celebration and plan to share the cooking with another couple. I'll be in charge of the appetizers and main course, while our friends will decide on salad, cheeses and dessert. A treasured family recipe for spicy baked oysters will begin the evening and will be followed by grilled lamb chops surrounded by a colorful garnish of roasted carrots, red-skin potatoes and fennel.

Two of my aunts, both gifted cooks from Mississippi, gave me the recipe many years ago for Johnny Reb Baked Oysters. (Johnny Rebel was the moniker the Union army used for Confederate soldiers.) Each swore that this was her favorite way to prepare these bivalves, and I, too, find this oyster gratin irresistible. Fresh-shucked oysters sprinkled with parsley and shallots are layered in a baking dish and drizzled with lemon juice and half and half. Seasonings of black pepper, hot sauce and paprika add a touch of heat to the dish. Covered with a buttered cracker crust, the oysters are baked a half-hour until golden and crisp on top, but still velvety-tender beneath.

Served with flutes of cold bubbly champagne, they will make a delicious beginning to our last meal of 2002.

Distributed by Tribune Media Services International.

Johnny Reb Baked Oysters

Makes 6 to 8 servings as a first course

2 quarts (about 2 pounds) fresh-shucked oysters, drained

1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

About 6 quick splashes ( 1/4 teaspoon) hot pepper sauce, preferably Tabasco sauce

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons lemon juice

3/4 cup half and half

1/2 cup butter, melted, plus extra for greasing pan

2 cups fine cracker crumbs, made from oyster crackers or saltines

paprika, preferably Hungarian

Arrange oven rack at center position, and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a shallow 3-quart oven-to-table baking dish (a 9-by-13-inch Pyrex dish works well).

Place half the oysters in prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with half of each of the following: the parsley, shallots, salt, pepper, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire, lemon juice and half and half. Combine butter and crumbs and scatter half of this mixture on top. Repeat to make a second layer of oysters, seasonings, butter and cracker crumbs. Sprinkle generously with paprika.

Bake 30 minutes until top is golden and crisp. If not golden, place casserole 4 to 5 inches under preheated broiler and broil 3 to 4 minutes, watching constantly to avoid burning. Serve warm.