As 2002 draws to a close, so will the doors of Mount Vernon's Ruby Lounge.

Chef and co-owner Mary Soto says business at the restaurant is good but adds that running a restaurant is an intense job. After four years of having such a responsibility, her three partners were ready to move on.

She wanted to buy them out but couldn't afford to. Then, this past summer, they were approached about selling the place by the owner of the neighboring Bombay Grill and decided to say yes.

Soto says the Ruby Lounge (802 N. Charles St.) will stay open through December, perhaps into the first week of January.

While her partners are moving on in other directions, Soto says she doesn't know yet what she'll do next. But she's trying to put a positive spin on things.

"This was my dream," she says, "but when one door closes, another opens. ... Look, some people aren't as fortunate as us. They don't get to go out on an upswing."

Soto is hoping that lots of patrons hear about the closing and drop by, so she can see lots of friendly faces at the Ruby Lounge during its last few weeks.

Meanwhile, we'll keep you posted on the Bombay Grill owner's plans for the space.

Crummy but good

Here's a holiday gift idea for your favorite greasy-spoon fan: The Quest for the Holy Grill -- 50 Crummy but Good Restaurants Within Rambling Range of Washington, D.C. It's a new paperback from Washington Post writer and National Public Radio contributor Donovan Kelly.

As Kelly explains in the book's preface, "crummy but good" means an eating establishment that lacks in appearance but serves good food at good prices -- creating a generally comfy atmosphere.

His list doesn't quite reach Baltimore, but it does include a number of "crummy" Maryland places within our own rambling range, such as Happy Italian Delight in Bowie, Moon Cafe in Annapolis, Captain's Table in Solomon's, Nick's Airport Inn in Hagerstown and G&M; Restaurant in Linthicum.

Kelly mentions in the book that this is his "first quest," so maybe a "crummy but good" guide to Baltimore is in the works.

In addition to the list, Kelly serves up tips that will let a reader know if he or she is a "crummy but good scout." You are one if: "You are perfectly happy to eat a whole meal with only a single fork." "You look forward to reading your place mat." "You can eat out for a year without saying 'cuisine' or 'ambience.'"

The Quest for the Holy Grill (Capital Books Inc.) sells for $12.95 (probably more than you'd pay for any entree at any of the eateries listed). You should be able to find it at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores, or order it online at amazon.com or bn.com.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions by fax to Sloane Brown at 410-675-3451, or by e-mail to sloane@livetabletalk.com.