Roederer Estate Brut Rose, Anderson Valley ($26). This is without question one of California's best sparkling wines and a terrific splurge for the holiday season. It's a pale pink, almost white, bubbly with subtle strawberry and yeast flavors. Where many California sparkling wines can be aggressively fruity but disappointing in the finish, the Roederer rose is elegant, intensely penetrating and long on the palate. I'd serve this at a classy party, with smoked salmon and caviar.