Irecently discovered the place that all of eastern Baltimore County seems to go for dinner. Pizza John's on Back River Neck Road is nothing less than a food factory.
On a recent visit, I tried to count the number of employees slinging pizza dough, making subs or taking orders, but gave up after reaching 25. All wore all-white uniforms, the men in white shirts and pants, with a black belt and a folded paper hat -- very 1962.
The family-owned Pizza John's, which has been open for more than 30 years, runs with a precision that Henry Ford would appreciate. On an extremely crowded night, our large order, which included pizza, was ready in less than 15 minutes.
The food was far from inspired, but more than adequate for a Sunday night carryout run.
The pizza, which has been voted best in Baltimore by another publication, was nothing special, at least in my opinion and in those of my two official tasters at home. The medium-thick crust was well-done, and the sauce had a hint of spice. But neither a plain ($6.45 for a small) nor a sausage pie ($7.45) was particularly memorable.
Rigatoni with the tomato sauce and meatballs ($7.50) was better. The sauce had a nice, peppery aftertaste, and the meatballs were no-nonsense, pure-meat concoctions.
A tuna-salad sub ($3.95) had plenty of tuna but too much mayonnaise, and came on the blandest sub roll I believe I have ever encountered. The crispy onion rings ($2.25) were delicious, while the garlic bread with cheese ($3.15) needed more garlic.
Pizza John's makes its own cannoli ($2.75), which had a nice consistency but had that taste that screams out, "I've been in the refrigerated case too long." The restaurant also sells cheesecakes made elsewhere. The chocolate-chip version ($2.75) was less than mediocre.
There's plenty of parking at Pizza John's, although the restaurant might consider hiring a traffic cop for those busy nights.
Pizza John's
Food: ** 1/2
Service: *** 1/2
Waiting area: **
Parking: ***
Where: 113 Back River Neck Road, Essex
Phone: 410-687-7733
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
Prices: Pizza from $6.45 to $14.70; pasta dishes and subs from $3.55 to $10.30; credit cards accepted
Outstanding: ****; Good: ***; Fair or uneven: **; Poor: *