Just when you think you know everything there is to know about Champagne, something comes along to teach you humility.

Before receiving samples this fall, I had not heard of Duval-Leroy, a family-owned producer making its North American debut this year. Schedules could not be arranged for a meeting with Carol Duval-Leroy, the young widow who runs the company, so six sample wines had do the speaking for the estate.

Wow!

From the $25 nonvintage brut to the $79 vintage 1990 "Femme" luxury bottling, all of the wines were fabulous and competitively priced. The packaging is clever and artistic; the flavors pure and elegant.

Besides the richly complex Femme, my favorite was the 1996 Blanc de Chardonnay, an extraordinary value at $32. But there are no losers here. The Cuvee Paris nonvintage brut ($28) and 1995 Cuvee Leroy-Niemann ($42) are subtle and nuanced. The nonvintage brut rose ($32) is crisp and full-bodied - a wine to serve with rich foods.

The story behind the winery is that of a young widow who chose to run her late husband's family business rather than sell out to corporate ownership. The tale will have to wait to be told another day, but tasting the wines will make you glad she did.